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When assembling a roll of London’s top restaurants, one might expect familiar high-end establishments. However, nestled high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a distant area of north London.

An Surprise Accolade

The little Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the city by a respected food magazine. The recognition has left the proprietors totally surprised.

“I’m totally astonished,” says the proprietor, alluding to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their humble shop securing such a high position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular food hotspot, has retained much of its original feel. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” notes the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the fare, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a tender texture.

It is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the meaty mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the savoury meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, imparting it a deeper, nuttier and not overly sweet profile.

Outranking the Titans

Notably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the top of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, equivalent tasting menus at luxury establishments can start at many times that amount.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to show what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel really proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s success is bound to have meaning outside its own walls. “I think many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the broader meaning of this gastronomic honour.